night fire on the campsite
The border crossing to India was smooth and the custom officers worked surprisingly efficient. I take a photo at the welcome to India sign an push the bike through the gate on the road. Wow! I`m in India! It didnt even take a second and I knew that I was stepping into a different world… “hey mister you wana cold drink?!! special indian price for you! only for you! best price for you”… “ change money? i have a special good rate for you!” ”you wana rikscha? only 200 rupees!” “taxi to amritsar? come here! best price!” I asked myself “is this india?”I jumped on the bike
and pedalt on, leaving the nusty guys behind me. It felt like a deep breath of freedom. Womens every where on motorbikes, cycles, in shops and even driving cars. They are dressed in colorful saris that flutter in the wind and let them look even more beautiful than they already are. I had to look at every women passing

it does me well after seven month traveling in the mulsim world, where womens are rare on the road ore covered with headscarfs. The young Indian men are dressed in trendy jeans and shirts. The houses look more decent and the roads are in better
conditions. I cycle trough a long green avenue, passing green fields with corn and rice. I reach the town Amritsar in the evening and its about the same chaotic traffic like in a Pakistani city. It was like a shock for me to see so many tourist and restaurants serving all kind of western food. I didnt see so many backpackers since turkey! I was allowed to spend two nights at the pillgrims center in the holy golden temple. It is the holy tempel of the people siikh. A special mystic place with good energy. To stay and eat at the pillgrimms house is by dontion. It didnt
keep long time there I was curious what`s out there in India? The first days where difficult. The traffic is absolutly mad and crazy here, the worst so far. I saw in the first five days, five accidents just in front of me. Once a girl, maybe just ten years old got hit by a truck just in front of me. The roads are tight and and crowded. The problem is that they dont have any shoulder. Horses, dunkees, buffaloes, cars, motorbikes, bicycle, dogs, people, tractors. trucks and buses are sharing the little room. Indians seem to have only one rule. The stronger has the primacy, doesnt mathe
r if the other gets in danger of live. Even the rule to drive on the left hand side seems to be unimportent. Sometimes a truck takes over a bus and a car takes over the bus and this is happening at the same moment. It doesnt mather when there is traffic from the opposide dirrection. The stronger has the primacy… everybody seems to love the horn at his vehicle. The clatter goes all the time for everything, it seems to be like a reflex to push the bloody button. On the back side of the trucks is written in big lethers “PLEASE BLOW HORN!” but why? to d
rive people loopy with noise? The worst thing are the nutty heedless truck and bus drivers. The finger on the clatter and dashing in a dangerous speed trough the crowds. I see everyday upside down cars and trucks at the side of the road, reminders of ugly accidents. Anyway I do what I learnt in Turkey and Iran, just to jump of the road when it gets dangerous. I decided to get on side roads as much as possible to avoid the traffic. I just cycled out of the city Sangrur an was having a rest in a tea house. All of a sudden somebody s
siikh kids in fron of theit tempel
tarted to speak english with me. He is a profesor at the university and was curious what I was doing. He invited me to come for a visit in his village. He showed me his fields, the brick factory, the village tempel of the siikh and took me for a tour to his relatives at their homes, giving me a interresting view into the country side life. Finaly I stayed the night. Next day I cycled on, on tiny roads trough beautiful landscapes passing picturesque villages. The people wash their water buffaloes in the village lake, the womens wash their clothes at the rivers, nacked kids jump of bi
dges, the corn is moving like waves in the wind, the roads are like endless tree avenues…beautiful India! Sometimes I stop at a tea house to have a rest. They serv me sweet tea with buffalo milk. I takes seconds and I`m surrounded with curious people just strarring at me or asking me questions. I try to find a quiet spot to camp for the night but its a mission impossible. There is people everywhere and there is always somebody that discovers me. But they let you do what you want and are friendly. I tried to put up my tent near the village Padla. After s
econds is the whole village on the move to see me. They didnt let me camp they take me at their home. I wasn`t allowed to leave the next day. They showed me the fields, the temples, I had to milk a water buffalo :-), I was chewing sugarcane, mothers put their bays in my arms just that I could cuddle them

and and and… I dont know in how many different homes I was sitting and drinking tea. Everybody wanted to have me at his home. The kids where climbing in the trees to get a view over the wall to see me. I was the first foreigner. Next day they didnt want to let me go.
They said: “you have to stay at least five days!” I continued on the sideroad in direction Dehli. And again I ended up in a village

The village went crazy, they brought me food and they took me again from house to house. I had to eat and drink in every house. It was simply too much people, to much impressions and too much things going on. I didnt feel well in the evening. I developed high fever and diarrhea in the night. The family was so nice with me. They took so much care about me. I decided to go to a doctor after i recovered. Because it is already
the third time that I had about the same symptoms. The doctor took a blood test but he couldnt find out anything. I cycled on and planed my travels that I would reach a bigger town in the evening. I go for a hotel, step into the room and shut the door. “huch I`m alone!” the people are wonderful but it takes energy. Now its only a few km to the nepali border left. But it was time to get to Dehli! Sue my girlfriend arrives from Switzerland tomorrow! We will stroll arround India for three weeks. Kashipur the town near by the nepali border is only 200km away from Dehli.
I took a bus at noon so i taught that i would arrive about mid afternoon in dehli. But the roads where so bad and the traffic so much that it took eight hours to get to the eastern end of dehli. But I had to get to the other end of the city. So I had to cycle in the dark through the thick traffic trying to find my way. It wasnt a piece of cake but I arrived one hour later in the hostal. Now im here in Dehli that is bursting with tourists and guys trying to sell you something. “he mister you wana ricksha?” and so on.
goods are getting carried on the head
Now its time to shave (hmm…maybe) getting my cloths washed and getting to a ordinary guy again
…tomorrow i cant believe it, after nine month dreaming about here!
hug
Teddy/Steven